Nah, not that fast unless you live in a swamp. Some filaments are just shittier. An easy test is just to pull the filament with the hand and feel how much pressure is needed. There is a perfect spot just before the heated filament smells tasty and sweet when is being extruded.
Yeah, this is what finally lead me to the PLA being bad… I literally CANNOT pull hard or fast enough to get it to separate. It always leaves these whispy strings behind. Even at 180 degrees… any colder and it wouldn’t melt.
It just drools out of the nozzle like crazy when it is preheating.
What is weird though is the first 10 prints I made with it came out without any issue at all, which why I was wondering if it was the moisture.
Thankfully I can fix it in software, I just have to make it retract on literally every operation I don’t want plastic strings.
Shoulda bought a laser engraver, woulda been a better investment. After printing a couple dozen parts after getting it I noticed today the 3d printer is starting to collect dust.
I’ve not used mine in over a year after moving it into the garage.
The K40 laser cutters have a decent scene online and seem like an affordable start point.
Would be useful for making custom Arduboys. I think that’s my next quarantine hobby…
I use my printer almost every day, any solution usually considers it and my cnc, like if they were hammer and pliers. I have a second one to repair the first one just in case (it has happened).
I guess it depends on what plans you had for it. It wasn’t going to generate use by itself.
You must have a lot of brackets and pencil holders.
I have several Printers since years and still use them on a regular base. It is not only About pencil holders if you know how to use a CAD Programm. I would not want to miss them.
Never printed any of those maybe brackets but because is a very generic concept. As @mameise said, you must design your own pieces.
One of the latest was those beautiful speaker covers for the arcade cabinet.
In light of recent events this is my latest 3D print (not my design, but I did paint it myself)
I got my printer mostly out of interest in miniature painting, but also small scale electronics. Nothing like being able to 3D print prototype cases.
Those are nice 3d prints! I guess my mind is just focused on flex PCBA and laser engraving right now!
@eried How did you get that surface finish on that speaker grill it looks like the extruder is like doing some kind of z movement as it prints the top layer(s)?
The power supply on my 3D printer died today. One of those pesky ceramic capacitors cracked.
Good news: ordered a replacement on amazon for $25 with prime shipping and it’ll be here Monday
Bad news: I was in the middle of printing a toy helicopter for my son and I to play with together this weekend now it’ll have to wait. I also had a list of 3D printable toys that he would love that’ll sadly have to wait for a bit.
If I had a 3D printer I’d probably design and print replicas of spaceships and things from scifi series.
Unfortunately I don’t really have the room.
Very grotesque. At least you’re ready for halloween, I guess.
Just give him a cardboard box, some plastic bottles, some scissors and some tape or glue.
That worked perfectly well before we had all these newfangled 3D printers.
It is a textured PEI steel sheet. My printers are very old (from 2011 and 2014) so I constantly add the “new fashionable” stuff. Latest additions were that texture option, filament sensor and powerloss recovery
Oh so thats the base layer?
I’ve found that higher temps on PLA usually makes the hairs much finer, then after waiting for the print to cool down I use a heat gun on high to very quickly sweep over the print and melt the hairs.
It either blasts the hairs away or turns the hairs into balls/bumps that are much easier to slice off with a box cutter.
Works very well with fat convex models and with large holes (something like a coffee cup). You need thick at least 3-layer walls that can absorb the heat blast without melting.
Fine (under 3-layer-thick) prints might deform, might work if they get refrigerated first but I haven’t tried this far.
Gotta let the model cool down a bit between air blasts to do the other side(s).
If you only print occasionally get a large seal-able plastic box to store your PLA in and a bunch of $2 humidity traps from the dollar-store to shove in that box (I filled half my container with those humidity traps). It has worked great for me, dried up even bad cheap PLA after a few months of just sitting in that box.
I’ve been looking for another slow cheap food dehydrator (since the last one melted itself) for faster drying but turns out I print infrequently enough that the humidity traps are sufficient if I round-robin the spools.
Hey everybody I made something! Thought about you while making it @eried
Hey 3d printing friends, any suggestion why these holes are disappearing?
I suspect it might have to do with the weird gray shadow thing? Is my geometry not closed? I didn’t get any warnings on import…
Ok this fixed it, for some reason my volumes are overlapping even though, it doesn’t seem that way?
I created the holes by applying a boolean subtract, which, has worked in the past?
So I guess my problem is in blender somewhere.
It’s time to learn autocad I think…