5 way tactile switch / navigation switch

Anyone used one of these instead of the 4 direction buttons? From what I have read they can be used for diagonal as well. If yes, how well do they work?

You wouldn’t be able to press UP+DOWN or RIGHT+LEFT.

@Mr.Blinky’s bootloaders use UP+DOWN to enter booloader mode, in case USB has been disabled in the sketch.

Some sketches use those combinations, as well.

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Curious - since I’ve never needed to access bootloader mode - is this something that’s required when using the flash cart and game loader?

I’m adding a ‘proper’ D-Pad to my homemade Arduboy, and I am considering adding a ‘rocker’ underneath it to prevent pressing opposing directions (just for preferred feel).

Only have a some experience with the 8x8 mm surface mount version that is part of @Ampersand’s peanut . It’s nice to use with the included little joystick but using the bare switch is awkward.

as @MLXXXp already mentioned you can not press UP + DOWN simultaniously. So you can not press this combo is to reset into bootloadermode.

That said that issue can be easily resolved by adding a reset button.

The bootloader is always used to upload a new sketch. Normally (When the USB code is not removed from a sketch) Opening and closing Arduboy’s comport @ 1200 baud will trigger a reset to enter bootloader mode (this is done by the Arduino IDE)

When the USB code has been removed Arduboy’s comport is not available and cannot be triggered into bootloader mode automatically. It has to be done by pressing reset button or by methods supported by the sketch (depending on the sketch, pressing down while switching on, a menu option or UP+DOWN for 2 seconds)

My prefered choice is using a reset button as (DIY) Arduboy responds immediately and it’s solid solution (if a sketch crashes/has a severe bug, the other solutions may not work)

Great to hear. I have a reset button. Good to know that’s all I need.

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You still may not be able to properly control some games or sketches that use UP+DOWN or RIGHT+LEFT. E.g. my ArduboyLife sketch uses UP+DOWN to toggle sound on and off.

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I don’t know of any offhand, but I’d imagine one of those rhythm games that requires the player to hold arrow keys down would be a likely candidate.

Good points. I’ll still use the D-Pad, but it’s good to know it’ll make some games either need workarounds coded in, or be downright incompatible. I haven’t installed any on my flash cart yet (at about 140 games at this point - likely will add 30 or 40 more) that require this, but I could see it why it would be necessary for some games given the limited physical inputs available.

Perhaps my V2 design (I’ve already got the D-pads on-hand and case design ready for 20 units for our first round for a STEM course at my son’s school) will use separate buttons.

No probs. I am putting a reset button into the PCB inside the case with an access hole.
Good point about the fact that some games may require two buttons pushed at the same time. However, this would be a design choice for the kids to balance up in their project against the advantages of a joy stick. Or actually we could with a bit of design go PSP style and have both (PCB design nightmare).

Can I just check the main reason for the alternative wiring of the 5v pro micro? Is this to make the circuit layout easier as I am thinking about redesigning my current layout to make it smaller. Looking at it with most of the switches on the right hand side of the PM it would make the pcb simpler.

On another topic if that is ok? Is it possible to have a multiplayer game with the Arduboy. At school a couple of teachers are setting up an wifi system linking together Raspberry PIs so we can have the kids coding and using sensors linked to the system. They will actually be coding on Chromebooks and then loading the code up to the raspberry pi to run. Their code will then take data from the sensors also linked to the wifi system. This got me thinking, would it be possible to have a local wifi set up linking together Arduboys allowing two player gaming.
Clearly I am not going to be able to do this but is there a clever person out there who has an abundance of spare time and does not work for a living who could just knock something like this up in an afternoon? :rofl:

This isn’t a complete multiplayer system, but it demonstrates broadcasting data to multiple connected serial devices:

I once had an Arduboy communicating with a Pokitto, but never went any further than that.
(I might still have the code for that somewhere.)

Either way you just have to bridge the serial connection over wifi.

The main reason to use the alternate wiring scheme is to be able to have full audio and RGB LED support when using a Pro Micro.

When using a Pro Micro with standard wiring the 2nd speaker pin, the RGB LED green pin and the OLED chip select pins are not available. besides this disadvantage the major advantage isthat all arduboy games can be played without modifying or recompiling games (when an SSD1306 display is used ,SSD1309 require patching)

Reasons to choose the alternate wiring:

  • RGB support and full audio support is prefered
  • Use of a different display type other than SPI SSD1306/SSD1309

From what I read I think the easiest way to do something like that is using these NRF24L01+ modules. They use their own ‘WiFi’ system and do not rely on any existing WiFi network (and their setup) Can’t tell more as I haven’t played with these yet, my modules haven’t arrived yet.

Could anyone give me a pointer to the basic how to connect up a DIY arduboy with memory chip please.

Sorry found it.

I’ve used those with some diy gamebuino I made and it was quite unconfortable to play with for me. It worked fine though.

Just starting to scratch the dust out of my brain and try to figure my way around this one. Would this work with the standard wiring layout 5v Pro Micro? And if yes how? I understand the concept of logic shifters and so I am just wondering how this would work without a logic shifter between the 5v pro micro and 3.3v memory chip?

Was that because it needed a rubber button type thing on the top?

Ok sorry again. Forget that question. I have found an explanation Mr. Blinky gave me a while ago which makes it clear.