Arduboy Kickstarter version design discussion

(Chris Smith) #91

When @bateske adds a level shifter, I can see that there are five signal lines between the ATmega32 and the SSD1306 that need this conditioning. In one of the other threads, you referenced a bi-directional level shifter to handle this.

Now, this is most definitely not my strongest area, but I thought all the signals were uni-directional – from the ATmega32, towards the display module. Am I misunderstanding something here, or is there a possible cost-saving if the level handling only needs to go one way?

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(Scott) #92

You are correct; you only need uni-directional level shifting. The question is, is there another design (perhaps using an IC) that would be cheaper? It’s something that would have to be investigated and costed out.

Note that since you don’t need bi-directional capability, you can eliminate the resistor on the input side of each shifter in the design of the MOSFET based module that I referenced. Also, for the lower speed signals, (RESET, D/C, CS) you can get away with a level shifter consisting of just a diode and a resistor, as implemented in this design (where you also wouldn’t need R6 and R8).

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#93

I would advise against putting DC on pin 13 as it is an essential pin and it is not available on the Pro Micro. Instead, RST could be moved to pin 13 as it is non-essential (it can be generated with a 4.7k resistor and a 100nF capacitor).

Therefore I would suggest either:

  • CS 4, DC 6, RST 13
  • DC 4, CS 6, RST 13

The later one has the advantage of being nearly the same as the first Dev Kit (DC 4, CS 6, RST 12).

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(Scott) #94

If you don’t put anything else on the SPI interface then you don’t need to control CS. You can just ground it to leave the display selected at all times.

So, perhaps it would be even better to put CS on pin 11 and put the blue (or other color) LED on pin 6. This way, a Pro Micro based version would have full control of a RGB LED.

Summary:
DC 4, CS 11, RST 13,
RGB LED 6 9 10 (any color order)

For a Pro Micro, pins 11 and 13 aren’t available, so you would use a resistor and capacitor for display RST and tie display CS to ground.

A Pro Micro also doesn’t have pin 12 available, so you would have to tie one lead of the speaker to ground. Hopefully this would have a fairly low impact for most sketches.

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#95

I am afraid PWM for pin 6 is on Timer 4 so it would be better to avoid for the same reasons you gave yourself for pin 13. Losing the blue LED on the Pro Micro is not a big problem in my opinion.

I had not thought about tying CS to ground. I have read that it is not recommended to do that as some chips use the CS signal to synchronize with the clock signal in case the controller misses a bit. In the SSD1306 datasheet nothing is mentioned about that so to be sure we would need to do tests with a noisy SCLK signal.

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(Scott) #96

You’re right. I hadn’t looked into that kind of conflict.

Unless someone designs a game where the color of the LED is an important indicator for game play.

The OLED module that I used for my breadboarded system only has 6 pins:
GND, VCC, SCLK, MOSI, RST, DC

CS is tied internally to ground. I haven’t noticed any problems with it.

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(Chris Smith) #97

As interesting as this is - no sarcasm there, it is interesting - I’d really like an occasional update from @bateske that this discussion is at least noted. That last circuit diagram is great evidence of progress, but there still appear to be some necessary tweaks to get to a “worth 10000 copies” version.

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(Kevin) #98

@chriss Discussion is of course noted :slight_smile:

Mostly, I note that it is impossible to make everyone happy with a circuit board layout but certainly will try! Things won’t be locked down for a week or two more when I get the first batch of PCB made.

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(Scott) #99

@bateske,
I’d be interested in knowing the latest design decisions and specifications. Mainly:

  • You were looking into using a boost regulator, to run at 5V and allow 16MHz operation. Has this been done?

    • If not, will you be running at 8MHz or overclocking to 16MHz?
    • If so, has the 3.3V maximum for display power and signals been addressed?
  • Is there any capability to indicate and/or measure battery charge/discharge levels?

Publishing a more complete schematic would be nice, though I would understand if you were hesitant to do so.

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(Kevin) #100

Good point about the charge feedback. As far as levels and voltages, I’ll ask atmel and arduino this weekend at maker faire and if they tell me I need a boost converter then I guess that will be my answer. ;p

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(Scott) #101

Well, if they tell you that it’s OK to run at 16MHz below 4.5V, contrary to section 29.5 of the datasheet, see if you can get it in writing. Also see if they will update the datasheet with this new info. I’m sure that there are a lot of developers out there who would be pleased to hear it.

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#102

@stg suggested that we should use pins 6/12 instead of 5/12 for the speaker.

The reason is that mixing two tones in software on pins 6/12 does not take more cycles than mixing in hardware by setting two different timers on pins 5/12. The advantage of pins 6/12 is that their PWM outputs are symmetric (OC4D and _OC4D) which is the perfect solution to produce a louder sound (-5V to 5V instead of 0V to 5V). Timer 4 goes up to 62 kHz, which is plenty for us (31 kHz should be enough).

I also tested connecting CS to ground which works perfectly fine and would be a solution for the Pro Micro. I therefore advise to put CS on pin 13.

Summary:
DC 4, RST 5, SPK+ 6, SPK- 12, CS 13

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(Chris Smith) #103

Although this is one mode of operation, it would limit options, because 6/12 must always use the same comparator. 5/12 gives the benefit of using two different comparators (_OC4D and _OC4A) running on the same high speed timer.

It should be possible to use the core timer, but run two completely different generation patterns on the different comparators, since control of the comparators is what is used to manipulate high-frequency PWM sound generation. The effect at the speaker is to just mix the two signals.

If you instead just want louder, comparator 4D and 4A can be set up almost identically, but with opposing outputs. Although both are inverting outputs, changing the Output Compare Mode on one of them is the key to getting two matched but out of phase signals. There is a slight additional effort to store each “louder mode” comparator change in two places instead of one, but the calculation effort to determine the new comparator level does not need to be repeated.

@MLXXXp did testing on a number of these options; I think he was using some of the core functionality from some of the existing high-frequency PWM music libraries that are already available.

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Music library brainstorm
(Scott) #104

And additionally, Pin 5 can optionally use a totally different timer (OC3A on Timer 3) than Pin 12. This gives even more flexibility.

No, I didn’t do any PWM testing. I only used various combinations of fixed and complimentary square wave tones, for mixing and volume control testing. Posts regarding this are here, here and here.

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(Scott) #105

@bateske,
Did you talk to Atmel and Arduino people at Maker Faire about this? If so, what was their response?

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(Kevin) #106

They said I should see no problems at all, that they run it outside of spec all the time. They just need to cover their asses in their data sheet so there is a considerable margin applied. Basically since we are operating outside of the range, they would not support the chip if there was problems. But we haven’t and shouldn’t see any problems with it.

I’ve been running over 9 prototypes fairly consistently charging and discharging non-stop for the past 3 months and have no issues. The only failures I’ve ever had throughout this project were failed solder joints on stuff I put together myself :slight_smile:

But we will be doing production in batches, so the first 200 units go out to developers if we have any problems then we will be happy to replace units and we can make a change for the next run.

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(Scott) #107

A discussion in the Music library brainstorm thread, as well as in this thread and on IRC, has come to the conclusion that Arduino pins 5 and 13 are desirable to use for the two speaker leads.

@davidperrenoud has proposed the creation of a DIY Arduboy Kit, possibly using a Pro Micro board. Based on his observations, in order to best accommodate the limitations of the Pro Micro, I’ll summarise the desired pin mappings for the production Arduboy as follows:

  • Speaker leads: 5 (PC6) and 13 (PC7)
  • Display DC: 4 (PD4)
  • Display CS: 6 (PD7)
  • Display RST: 12 (PD6)
  • Button A: 7 (PE6)
  • Button B: 8 (PB4)
  • D-Pad buttons: A0 (PF7), A1 (PF6), A2 (PF5), A3 (PF4)
  • RGB LED: 9 (PB5), 10 (PB6), 11 (PB7)
  • Battery monitor (if implemented): A4 (PF1) or A5 (PF0)

Note that all the display control pins are mapped the same as the current Dev Kit, making it a bit easier for a common library.

The order of the assignment of the three RGB LED colors to pins 9, 10 and 11 is arbitrary but if one color is considered less important than the other two, it should be put on Pin 11, because Pin 11 isn’t available on a Pro Micro.

I’d suggest blue on Pin 11. Blue generally doesn’t have much meaning but red/green can indicate stop/go, no/yes, bad/good, etc. Also, a two color red/green LED could be shifted from red, through various shades of orange and yellow, to green to indicate, for instance, a character’s health or weapon’s power level.

I myself have full color vision so I can’t speak for those with a red/green color deficiency, who might argue that having green/blue or red/blue is more desirable. However, I’d suggest that a kit that could only support two colors have spots for both a bi-color LED and two single color LEDs to better accommodate those people with color vision deficiencies.

I’m still not sure which button is A and which is B but note that the one we want to be capable of generating a standard Arduino int.4 interrupt should go on Pin 7 (PE6).

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#108

Good recap!

For the Pro Micro, I would prefer RST 6 and CS 12, as CS can just be connected to ground.

Note that the Caterina bootloader will need some small modifications in order to map TX/RX/LED to the RGB LED. With the actual bootloader, the action of uploading generates a cool sound on the speaker which might get annoying after a while.

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(Scott) #109

Of course, that would be fine as well. But note that with CS grounded it wouldn’t allow hackers to add additional devices to the SPI interface along with the display.

RST on the other hand, can be done in hardware on boot up with a resistor/capacitor circuit (as you’ve mentioned), provided that there’s no need to reset the display after its initial power up.

I guess another option would be to follow your suggestion of RST 6 and CS 12 for the Arduboy but for the Pro Micro kit have solder jumpers so that CS could be grounded or tied to one of pins 0, 1, 2 or 3. Hackers would then have to re-map the display CS pin in the library, though.

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(Scott) #110

@bateske,
In your Nov. 6 update on Kickstarter you stated:

We’ve completed all the DFM and all of the files are submitted.

So can you tell us what the final I/O pin designations will be?

Is it as shown in the schematic in this post above, with the speaker on pins 5 (PC6) and 12 (PD6), or did you change it to put the speaker on pins 5 (PC6) and 13 (PC7) (which the discussion determined was probably best)?

Which 3 pins are used for the RGB LED and what color is on each? Is it common anode to Vcc (i. e. a low on the pin will turn the LED on)?

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