Arduboy Mini [Kickstarter Funded!]

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If you are a developer and would like to see your games on a specific color system, please comment below which color you would like to be featured on. Trying to balance to around 25-ish per system!

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Love Rush on the pink one would be fitting :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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I would love to see any of my games on the red one since I have the red kickstarter Arduboy which is based off the color of my GameBoy Pocket. I’m down to add this to my collection of Arduboys :grinning:.

It’s pink but ok. :slight_smile:

Alright, since the response to this has been so positive, I’m pushing for more.



And, I think I’ll set a stretch goal that if it reaches 5,000 units it will have a case and a battery.

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This is going to Kickstarter?

Might I suggest an addition of PB5/PB6 to allow access to ADC/PWM pins?

I just broke out a dozen pins and they want more!

No. Maybe. Where the hell are you going to find the room?

I also had previously been using RX as the CS pin for the W25Q, so that will need to be one of the remaining pins.

But seriously what are you going to do with an ADC pin. Do you think many extra people would buy it?

For some reason the pink one is on my list.

I wonder what sensitive [WIP] Sensitive would look like on one of these!

Donkey Kong on Yellow (bananas!)
Black Jack on Green (the colour of the casino tables)
1943 on Blue (water!)
Mini Rogue on Pink (because this ins the colour left over)

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HAHAHAHAH RPI4 micro hdmis? :rofl: users will complain because changes and because not-changes. I think no power switch is OK-ish

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That was an awesome video stream, btw. :+1: Learned a bunch of things and :heart: seeing the mini being dissected.

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I want them! :star_struck: I want them ALL! :grin:

You can put the female connectors at the top layer, underneath the display. That may also level the display more inline with the buttons

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Just realised you are running an early version of 1943 … the latest has awesome scenery provided by @Vampirics

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The double-sided tape might not hold as well but it’s interesting. Might need to put extra unconnected pins to do the entire surface.

But it’s starting to look less and less like a techno-trinket.

Access to the ADC opens up a whole new world of applications for the Arduboy Mini. The current Arduboy is great for playing games but that is pretty much what it is limited to. Truth be told not all people in the “maker community” are into playing games and there really isn’t currently a low price defacto handheld “display/button/charger” platform for building up projects. Adafruits new PyGamer platform has potential but it misses the mark as a low cost platform as it is close to double what the Mini would retail for. Also the ATSAMD51 is over kill for simple projects.

Access to the ADC means that the Mini could read voltages or sensors such as light or temperature. The pins I referenced also are PWM capable which would allow for servo control, frequency generations, led fading etc

A good example of a project that I think would fit the Mini perfectly would be the ArdOsc. It offers a host of features from a single ADC pin.

@bateske If you solely want the Mini to be an entry into the Arduboy game community then breaking out the unused pins wouldn’t be necessary. I get it. If you’re interested in expanding the Arduboy community beyond just games than breaking out the unused pins allows this. There is little to no extra cost to do this and would allow potential access to a whole new market segment. A $20-25 “display/button/charger” with the ability to load applications from flash via a kickass bootloader would in my view sell like :fire: hot cakes :fire: in the “maker community”.

That’s really a smart idea!

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Smart but mechanically won’t fit sorry.

So, you want ALL the pins broken out? @JonRaymond

All snark aside,

How many pins should be broken out and can you suggest a pin header I could use?

What if it was a single longer header pointing towards the top under the oled?

The more the merrier. They don’t have to go to a female header. A decent solder pad/test point is much much easier to connect a wire too than trying to attached to a TQFP pin or even worse a QFN package.

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10 pin underneath might work.

But, this is the problem, mechanically, I don’t think it will work:

Have you considered something like 12 pin right angle ZH (1.5mm) SMD JST header?

Those are relatively easy to source in both North America and China and the pre wired female connectors are available and could be upsold as “Hacker” add on.

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