Arduboy replacement face/back plate

How is the size? It is thicker now, and heavier… how does it feel?

Very nice job! Your 3d prints come out AMAZING! I’ve never got results that good before.

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I am glad to have you say that.
I must admire admiration for the software and games you developed!!
Thank you.

I appreciate your advice and suggestions.
Thank you very much.

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I was able to return to the community. Thank you for your help.

How is the size? It is thicker now, and heavier… how does it feel?

The original Arduboy’s battery seems to be about 3 g.
In contrast, the 860 mAh battery is about 18 g, and the 2000 mAh battery is about 34 g.
When the weight of the battery differs by dozens of grams, the difference is noticeable with small items like Arduboy.

Also, the original Arduboy seems to be about 6 mm in thickness.
In contrast, the case thickness for the 860 mAh battery and the ISP header is 12 mm,
When you store a 2000 mAh battery, its thickness will be 14 mm.

My feeling is that if credit card size items exceed 1/2 inch thick, it seems to be difficult to handle.
The original size, weight and thinness of Arduboy is exactly a perfect design.

Very nice job!

It is an honor for me to hear such words from you. Thank you.

Thank you for listening and trying out ideas.

I just had another one. If you’d make that ICSP header 7 pins (or 8 pin with 1 pin key space to prevent reverse insertion) then D0/RXI could be connected to that extra pin and A SPI Flash cart could be used as well :smiley:

Example:
7-pin-icsp-flash-cart-header

SPI Flash Cart Example:
flash-cart
(SPI flash chip soldered at bottom of a TXB0104 level shifter board with 3.3V regulator)

I held two Arduboys back to back and that feels like a good thickness to hold. Sounds like 860mAh 12mm +ICSP is perfect :slight_smile:

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Add one more pin to also bring out D1/TXO and you would be able to cable connect two Arduboy’s using RXI, TXO, GND (and possibly VCC), and use the UART for two player games.

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Yeah! didn’t think of two player comms. so with a 9 pin header (or 10 pin with 2 key pins) expansion header. We a get three features: ICSP, flash cart (or SD cart) and 2 player link :smiley:

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Thanks for the information about SPI-FLASH.
Oh! It is necessary for the digital write signal line for the FLAH-#CS
(Furthermore, if the I2C connector is attached to Arduboy, Arduboy will be able to access EEPROM etc. via I2C…)

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Thank you for the link to interesting topics.
Indeed, the current 6 pin header should have “TX” / “RX” & “prevent-reverse”… increased to 9 or 10 pins.

The following signal lines should be added as a rough plan.
spi-i2c-tx-rx_001s

And I guess that the pin-headers should be as follows.
spi-i2c-tx-rx_002

Whether this placement and wiring will work…, and the battery may need a smaller one.
Maybe I will search for a smaller battery of around 500 mAh.

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I2C would be nice too! thinking about accelerometer … :slight_smile:

I wouldn’t put headers on the top. I would go for a 4 pin at the bottom for the extra signals TX/RX/D3/D2, 1 or 2 pin space (depends if 3D printing 1 pin space will be good/strong enough) and the 6 pin ICSP you already have.

pinout

When connecting a ICSP, flash I2C or serial board etc a male 11/12 pin header is always used. This protects for reverse insertion, reduces mechanical stress on each pin and gives a more firm connection.

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Thanks for advice on several points.
The placement of the header as you indicated would be easier to produce.
Besides, it is important to prevent reverse stabbing.
…Based on those points, I tried making a prototype.
case113btcn019_000

With this structure, the 12 pin female header is the limit size that can be placed.
And although RX and SDA are in a place hard to solder a little, wiring is possible.
case113btcn019_002

case113btcn019_003

(In this prototype, to prevent reverse stabbing, insert the peg into the hole of the header removed the terminal.)

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Awesome!

Just a last sugestion. If you swap the key pin with reserved pin, you can’t miss-insert a 6 pin ICSP header.

@bateske if you’re planning to replace the aluminium back with a plastic one you should do it like this :wink: :smiley:

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Is it possible to do one that uses the original front cover, but a different backing?

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The I believe the back should fit the original front with longer screws as the front started life as a replacement so all holes should align.

Original thread can be found here Arduboy replacement face plate

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Why longer screw? Can the wells in the backing be made deeper?

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Ha I just had a double take you might actually have enough depth for the existing ones.

But they may be a tad short

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Oh, you are right!! I forgot to think about that. Any stronger material would work…

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@n602 If you’re considering selling a few of these. I’m first in line :blush:

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I modified the layout of the signal lines a bit and added “update (5/3/2018)” to Thingiverse, thing: 2853120.
( There may be better placement for signal lines.)
If you are interested in CAD files and STL files, please visit there.
case113btcn019_123dx_20180503