Arduboy replacement face/back plate

Yeah! didn’t think of two player comms. so with a 9 pin header (or 10 pin with 2 key pins) expansion header. We a get three features: ICSP, flash cart (or SD cart) and 2 player link :smiley:

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Thanks for the information about SPI-FLASH.
Oh! It is necessary for the digital write signal line for the FLAH-#CS
(Furthermore, if the I2C connector is attached to Arduboy, Arduboy will be able to access EEPROM etc. via I2C…)

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Thank you for the link to interesting topics.
Indeed, the current 6 pin header should have “TX” / “RX” & “prevent-reverse”… increased to 9 or 10 pins.

The following signal lines should be added as a rough plan.

And I guess that the pin-headers should be as follows.

Whether this placement and wiring will work…, and the battery may need a smaller one.
Maybe I will search for a smaller battery of around 500 mAh.


I2C would be nice too! thinking about accelerometer … :slight_smile:

I wouldn’t put headers on the top. I would go for a 4 pin at the bottom for the extra signals TX/RX/D3/D2, 1 or 2 pin space (depends if 3D printing 1 pin space will be good/strong enough) and the 6 pin ICSP you already have.


When connecting a ICSP, flash I2C or serial board etc a male 11/12 pin header is always used. This protects for reverse insertion, reduces mechanical stress on each pin and gives a more firm connection.


Thanks for advice on several points.
The placement of the header as you indicated would be easier to produce.
Besides, it is important to prevent reverse stabbing.
…Based on those points, I tried making a prototype.

With this structure, the 12 pin female header is the limit size that can be placed.
And although RX and SDA are in a place hard to solder a little, wiring is possible.


(In this prototype, to prevent reverse stabbing, insert the peg into the hole of the header removed the terminal.)



Just a last sugestion. If you swap the key pin with reserved pin, you can’t miss-insert a 6 pin ICSP header.

@bateske if you’re planning to replace the aluminium back with a plastic one you should do it like this :wink: :smiley:


Is it possible to do one that uses the original front cover, but a different backing?

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The I believe the back should fit the original front with longer screws as the front started life as a replacement so all holes should align.

Original thread can be found here Arduboy replacement face plate

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Why longer screw? Can the wells in the backing be made deeper?

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Ha I just had a double take you might actually have enough depth for the existing ones.

But they may be a tad short


Oh, you are right!! I forgot to think about that. Any stronger material would work…

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@n602 If you’re considering selling a few of these. I’m first in line :blush:


I modified the layout of the signal lines a bit and added “update (5/3/2018)” to Thingiverse, thing: 2853120.
( There may be better placement for signal lines.)
If you are interested in CAD files and STL files, please visit there.

Thanks for your advice.
Anyway, I tried it like the picture below. (There may be better arrangements.)
Since it should not affect the design of the back-plate, I will add the file of this prototype to thingiverse.


Oh, Yes, that’s the reason. Thank you for showing it.

Is it possible to do one that uses the original front cover, but a different backing?

I thought I was going to do so, but I noticed it was not easy.
Perhaps high intensity filaments may realize it.
(But I do not have that kind of filament.)

I am honored for your words. Thank you.
Perhaps the market is very narrow, it will be closed if several sets are sold.
And, If I try to sell this, I think it is necessary to select proper connectors, prepare cables and do a variety of things.

If there are only few people who will use this for testing, it is easier for me to send free samples.
It is possible to output several sets of this for some people using it for testing, but the delivery method is not as simple as the data.

It would be nice if everyone could use a 3D printer at school or workplace, but that is not always the case.

Anyway, Probably it takes about 2 hours to print out one set with a slightly polite setting.


That would be awesome. I could send som flash carts in return.


I think that your offer is very appreciated, but it seems that your labor and burden is also great.

If there are people who would like to try this work, that is a blessing for me.
(How many people are there?)
I am glad if I can offer it as a free sample of the product generated from the community.
But I can not make so many numbers. And shipping cost is also necessary.

For example, when sending from Japan to the United States, it takes less than a week to ship Shipping fee US$20.
If it is about a week, the cost is about US$10.
If it is about two weeks, the cost is about US$7, and the method which can not trace is about US$4.

If there is an offer that shipping costs will be paid to me, that is grateful to me.
But how to receive it, paypal ?, remittance to my bank account?
It seems that various procedures have become necessary to receive remittance with paypal.
Also, remittance to a bank account may be higher than the shipping fee.

Considering such things, it seems that it is not easy.
I wish I had something good thought …


Here’s a follow up to the flash cart IDEA. The purple TXB0104 board contains a 3.3V voltage regulator and the TXB0104 level shifter to which the 25Q64 SPI flashchip signals are connected (Good for 8Mbyte of storage) this setup is much neather them my previous messy setup :stuck_out_tongue: