A large number of games compile and run fine when compiled for 328p but you will also miss out on the custom bootloader and spi flash unless you wright your own. I got so far with 328p and flashing from SD but never got round to implementing a menu.
Was I correct when I said the pin-outs might change?
Yeah the pins and mcu will change in the lib but a large amount of the games will compile fine without requiring further modifications.
Thanks, I think I will buy Micro then… I dont really want to rewrite every game I put on there
Rewriting the pins would only require changing a few details of the Arduboy2 library,
so it shouldn’t be too much extra effort.
But using a 32u4 in the right configuration should be no extra effort whatsoever.
(I.e. assuming you have the pins set up the same as the Arduboy itself.)
You could use this library to compile for 328p but you may need to edit it back to support a spi oled.
You don’t have to edit every sisngle game individually. In most cases buttons are handled by the library so for example in the game code A_Button is still A_Button and the pins are defined in the lib. It’s only games that use less of the library and deal directly that would need manual configuration.
I want to make this build, are there more details somewhere?
Mr Blinky, would you be kind enough to share a copy of the schematic of this bread board build as I would like to do it as well. I have all the parts and library files, just need the schematic.
Any support would be greatly appreciated.
I didn’t make an schematic for this. I used the original Arduboy schematic and Arduino Micro Pinout to wire it all up.
Differences from the original schematic are that I used 1K resistors for the RGB LED and connected the pasive Piezo speaker directly to the pins (no series capacitor/resistor) for simplifying parts you could use all 1K resistors for the flashchip too.
Is the display configured as SPI or I2C? I’m looking at the schematic but not exactly clear.
The two red circled pin headers are used to connect the power. The battery box wires don’t have pins. I stripped the two wire ends and wrapped them around a single pin several times. Then I removed the black insulating part of another pin and pushed it onto the pin with the wire so the bare wire get’s squeezed firmly together.
Thank you. On the schematic, I do not see the display CS going to anything, but it appears here you have the CS connected to D12, is that correct?
Edit: I found the display datasheet and it says CS is active low, and D12 is likely pulled low at the processor startup. Since it is unassigned, it likely remains low. Did I get that correct?
And the display D/C looks like it’s connected to D5? D/C is not on the schematic and D5 on the schematic is for the speaker. So I’m confused. Not even sure what D/C does.
Edit: Okay now I think I understand. Found the display datasheet and it says when the display is in 3-wire serial (SPI) mode, D/C must be connected to Vss (GND). The piezo buzzer’s D5 must be always configured to be ground and D13 must be it’s high. So the display’s D/C is connected to the buzzer’s ground at all times.
Correct OLED CS goes to digital pin 12
The CS line is pulled low by initialisation code of the Arduboy library. It normally remains low. However programs using Flash memory will pull it in an inactive high state so the flash chip can be addressed.
There are a few flaws in the original schematic. No D/C connects to digital pin 4 of micro.
Note that for Arduboy the displays have to be 4-wire SPI mode versions and D/C should be connected to an I/O pin.
For easy reference you can use the wiring table here (1st column for micro):
That wiring table was most helpful. Okay I think? I have it right now. Someone please double-check me.
hello, why RGB led not work?
I connected as shown in the diagram but it doesn’t work.
If I use the negative instead of the positive on the 5V pin, the LED lights up but works in the opposite direction.
It looks like you have a common cathode RGB LED instead of a common anode one like the Arduboy uses.
how can i solve?