Breadboy a 100% non soldering Homemade Arduboy

Correct OLED CS goes to digital pin 12

The CS line is pulled low by initialisation code of the Arduboy library. It normally remains low. However programs using Flash memory will pull it in an inactive high state so the flash chip can be addressed.

There are a few flaws in the original schematic. No D/C connects to digital pin 4 of micro.

Note that for Arduboy the displays have to be 4-wire SPI mode versions and D/C should be connected to an I/O pin.

For easy reference you can use the wiring table here (1st column for micro):

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That wiring table was most helpful. Okay I think? I have it right now. Someone please double-check me.

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hello, why RGB led not work?
I connected as shown in the diagram but it doesn’t work.
If I use the negative instead of the positive on the 5V pin, the LED lights up but works in the opposite direction.

It looks like you have a common cathode RGB LED instead of a common anode one like the Arduboy uses.

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how can i solve?

  • get an common anode RGB LED would be easiest.

  • If you do want to use this common cathode RGB LED then you’d have to edit the Arduboy and Arduboy2 libraries

  • use transistors or an inverter chip to invert the RGB signals


ok thanks!

hi everyone, I have a question. Can I compile with arduino ide already for the 1309 display?

This Is my arduboy!!!


Yes you can by installing the Homemade package.

I have installed this package buy when i compile sketch display show errate screen buy i convert hex with python tool good work.

Make sure the Arduboy libraries that where installed through the library manager (or added manually) are removed otherwise the Homemade package libraries have no effect

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one question, why is the buzzer connected between 5 and 13? can’t you just connect between 5 and gnd or 13 and gnd?

This is to allow two channel sound. It essentially mixes the signals from both pins to a single speaker. You can also play the same tone on both pins but with one pin complimenting the other (one is low when the other is high) to get a higher volume tone.

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What you describe is basically half bridge driven in that it can only swing the piezo from 0 to Vcc. Connecting to two IO pins in a full bridge configuration allows the piezo to be driven from +Vcc to -Vcc (by driving the two pins in alternating opposite states) so you get twice the drive swing for greater volume.

Can you make a detailed Tutorial on how to make this? its very nice… and by the way… is there any chance i can buy a black pcp bateske dev kit ?

Not a tutorial but @cdevidal’s labelled photo helps to clarify the wiring, especially when viewed full size.

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Update i got it to work… where can i input direct 3 v ? The display is liking it … i tried splicin the vcc port and grnd

(upload://5mEEB4rhlcJmZxjGOFNI29gukeK.jpeg) thanks… i wanted something like a fritzing… image… but thats ok too. Actually… i had 5 … of 4pin oleds… flyin around… but today came the 7pin ones… so im ready to build it… but i want a analog joystick… like i saw on one page…

Wow nice. You are so awesome Blinky. Billy’s is also really cool. :smiley:

hey, so I’m trying to somewhat replicate it, and for the batteries, 4 aaa batteries would be 6 volts, but that exceeds the 5 volts for the board right? Or is 5 volts just for an arduino pro micro? If for a pro micro, how many aa or aaa batteries should I use/need?