[CONTEST COMPLETE] Build the Original Arduboy Prototype!

(Kevin) #1

Hey everyone! It’s time to test your DIY skills! Over a year ago I put the origonal arduboy prototype together, and now it’s your turn! Let’s make it interesting by having a contest!!


First person to post a video in this thread of a functioning Arduboy Prototype in this thread will recieve a Titanium Back Arduboy we made for the Kickstarter! The metal alone for the back cover cost more than $200 not to mention the hand assembly and 1 of 2 units that were ever built with Titanium! REAL AIRCRAFT GRADE TITANIUM!

Click Here to Download the Prototype Files!


Feel free to help each other out if you like, I won’t be offering any support other than an occasional hint in IRC if people are really struggling. But there are some of you out there who probably already have the parts to build this, so get hacking!

DISCLAIMER: Arduboy reserves the right to make the final judgement on authenticity and qualification of submitted content. We would like to see as close to an exact copy, but we will allow for some wiggle room/gray area depending on the circumstances. Only one reward will be delivered to the first person who posts a video!

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3-D printing a case for devkit
Flappy Ball
(Mahdi Osman) #2

Is there anyway I can code this? :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

(Harrison Buckley) #3

the last item say 2k. 2k what?

(Ross) pinned #4
(Kevin) #5

ohms

20 more characters

(Simon) #6

It’s almost 4 AM here and I’ve just completed solderings and programming :slight_smile:
I’ve flashed it with an 8Mhz bootloader since it doesn’t have an external resonator or a quartz (uses internal clock).

Buzzer test video (with Star Wars theme :sunglasses: )

Now I’m a bit tired. I’ll continue working on it tomorrow.
Goodnight everyone.

4 Likes
(Kevin) #7

Oh snap looks like we may have a winner! Just for confirmation can we see the back side too! :slight_smile: Nice work!! White version, very cool.

(Simon) #8

Thanks Kevin. You’re right, white version is very cool :smiley:

Here are some photos of the back, as requested (attention: cat inside :smile_cat: ):

Programmed using an Arduino Uno as AVR ISP

P.S. I’ve some extra PCB if someone needs one xD

1 Like
(Ash) #9

Congrats Simon! I’m just a lowly programmer, don’t have the skills to pull something like that off, mine would be held together with parcel tape and the size of a small hatchback, so great work!

1 Like
(Kevin) #10

It’s close but it looks like the display and buttons may not work yet! Gotta have full functionality! there is a chance for anyone else to catch up! :smile:

@simonepsp let’s see it run some game!! :smile:

(Simon) #11

I don’t think buttons can actually work. I may be wrong but the circuit seems incomplete… :grin:
Resistors are missing and probably it isn’t able to detect any value change.

There must be a resistor for every button, with one leg connected to INPUT PIN and touch area (button) and the other leg connected to VCC.

If I’m wrong please correct me.

EDIT: no, I’m wrong. It would work but the input value would change continuously. I’ll give it a look later :smile:

(Kevin) #12

protip: capacitive touch :wink:

(Simon) #13

Sorry for the late reply, I tried different OLED libraries all the week. Even the Arduboy one (an old revision, compatible with ATMEGA328P). No result, screen remains black…

I’m sure that OLED screen is correctly making contact and OLED PINs used (DC,CS,CLK,MOSI,RESET) are correctly set in the OLED library.
Could you please provide us a library and a sketch to use with? :slight_smile:

So I’ll be able to understand if it’s an hardware or a software problem. :slight_smile:
Thanks

#14

Try with the u8glib library with either SSD1306 or Sh1106 and either software or hardware SPI. If everything fails, check that the RESET line is connected to the correct Arduino pin.

(Simon) #15

Hi david,
Unfortunately I’ve already tried the u8glib library without success. (every possible SSD1306 and SH1106 combination).
The RESET line is connected to D7/RST and I’ve already declared it in the sketch.

Really don’t know what could be wrong here :frowning:

(Kevin) #16

The pinouts for the one your are building are almost entirely different from the current configuration. I’m pretty sure that one you’re building is still using software SPI.

Check the schematic closely :wink:

(Simon) #17

I’m using an old version of your library ('cause it’s compatible with ATMEGA328P) :slight_smile: Here’s the ArduBreakout sketch:

Pins seem right to me :slight_smile:

(Kevin) #18

Keep trying, you’ll get it. Arduboy wasn’t built in a day :wink:

(Simon) #20

I think it’s time to give us a tip :slight_smile: :slight_smile:
Today I’ve double checked again every component used and pcb traces. Everything seems ok.
So I don’t really understand why the screen isn’t turning on.

Tried every possible library (u8glib, old HW SPI arduboy, microOLED) …

(Scott) #21

It looks like you’re at the point that you need to use a multimeter and an oscilloscope, and possibly a logic analyser, to determine the problem.

Here’s what I’d do:

  • Use the meter to make sure you’re getting the proper voltage on VDD pin 9 and VDDB/VBAT pin 6.
  • Write some test code to individually toggle the I/O lines connected to RES pin 14, CS pin 13, D/C pin 15, D0/SCLK pin 18 and D1/SDIN pin 19. Use a meter or scope to make sure the pins are toggling properly.
  • Make sure BS0 pin 10, BS1 pin 11 and BS2 pin 12 are all attached to ground.
  • Use some code to send initialisation commands to the display. Check if the charge pump is now providing about 7V - 12V to VCC pin 28.
    • If you have VCC then the display was able to receive commands and everything should be working.
    • If you don’t have VCC then either the display isn’t receiving commands or the charge pump circuitry is incorrect or faulty. Use the scope or a logic analyser to determine if the control lines are in the right state and the proper commands are being sent to the display.
  • If VCC is at the proper voltage and you can’t get anything to display, check that all other signals are wired correctly and that there is voltage of about VCC-2.5V on the resistor connected to IREF pin 26, which sets the display brightness.
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