While attempting to create a diy arduboy with a pro micro, I managed to clumsily rip the usb port off of it. It is damaged so I can’t reattach it. However, I’m hoping I don’t need to buy a new one. Is it possible to still flash games to a cartridge with the same pro micro? Or could I even solder a new port on if it’s not too difficult. I’ve got an UNO that I can use as a programmer.
(In the images, the pro micro is being powered by an UNO)
I would solder a new usb…than tormenting uno
Could that be done with a soldering iron?
RIP your usb port 
You can continue to program the micro, using the uno as a ICSP and use the appropriate pins.
It’s sad, but probably just best to pop a few bucks for a new micro. They do sell them with usb-c connectors which are more sturdy now.
Note: Don’t feel to bad, judging from the left over solder joints on the PCB, the connector was never properly soldered to the board anyways. Otherwise it would have pulled up those traces too.
Thanks for your help. I guess I’ll buy a new one, with usb-c if you think it’s better. It feels a shame to waste it though. I hope it will be useful in the future.
I’ve had exactly this sort of problem before with one of the cheap SMD USB port on one of my Pro Micros. I ended up just replacing it with a new board (of the same kind).
A USB-C one would be a lot better, if you’re willing to spend the extra money. But whatever you choose, on the new board, make sure the USB port is soldered through the board, not to pads on the top of the board. SMD USB ports typically break off easily like this, unlike the THT ones.
You could use it for a dedicated project that only needs to be programmed once, and program it with an ICSP. (A project that doesn’t require USB, though.)
If you did want USB but could live with a permanently attached cable, then instead of soldering on a new connector, you could scrounge a USB cable with the desired plug on it, cut and strip the other end, then solder the wires directly to the board. That is, if you’re skilled enough to do this.
P.S. For a USB cable, you wouldn’t have to solder the wires directly to the tiny pads for the original connector. USB ground could go to a GND pin or pad. USB power could go to the proper side of the polyfuse (F1). D+ and D- could go to the proper side of the USB termination resistors (R5, R7). This gives you larger pads to work with.
