Hi! I have encountered a problem with the 2.42 inch oled from the brand DIYMORE. I am experiencing glitching when using the screen on the left (seems like it is not refreshing fast enough) yet it works perfectly with the screen on the right, (which is a different brand). Is there something I need to change on the rear of the DIYmore (It’s my understanding that it is currently in SPI mode). Attached are some instructions from diymores website concerning SPI vs IIC.
Thanks!!
Might be a different controller altogether inside the display itself.
Okay I was worried about that. I have seen the diymore screens been used before for arduboys that’s why I thought they would be a safe bet. I tried driving the faulty screen with the working driver board and it made it work. (Setup in image)
In terms of soldering/moving resistors around is there anything that can be done there or is the unit not gonna work for my application?
Thanks!
what does the glitching look like? is it consistent?
The left board seems to have voltage regulators and the right one doesn’t. So the left one is probably suitable for 5V and the right one is probably intended for 3.3V.
I think R8 and R9 are pull up resistors on the SCK/SDA lines.
On the righ they are probably connected to VCC and on the left they are probably connected to the voltage regulator outputs. Maybe that could cause issues but I don’t know how you’ve wired everything up so I can’t do any more educated guesses.
I have tested multiple of the DIYmore screens, some work perfectly whilst other experience the glitching seen in the first attached photo.
I’ve also included the circuit diagram I have them wired up in.
Does this mean they are just manufacturing faults if some are working and others aren’t?
Thanks!
It would seem so.
Is Wheezer a reference to the 90s band?
I thought so … but was hoping for a little 90s nostalgia.
He looks like he’s from the 90s I guess.
It’s the same code on both of those? The half screen split can be something like what happens when you don’t have the ssd1309 specific code so I wonder if you can use normal 1306 code?
Hi yes its the same device and code, just removing one screen (the faulty) and plugging in another (the working). Hahah definately more Carl Wheezer!
I’ve also found that using the faulty screen is causing issues with the audio on my device, not experienced with a good screen.
Does this provide any insight?
Thanks
I think you said it all there.
Yes I thought that may be the case, is there a brand/model of the 2.42inch OLED SSD1309 that anyone could recommend? I’m not sure I can trust DIYmore or the supplier I purchased it from (Aliexpress) moving forward.
Thanks for helping me resolve this issue!
So the problem is the driver board.
That may be because the voltage regulators U2 and U3 reduce the voltage to 3.3V. The voltage booster that generates the display panel voltage needs to work harder and causes more noise on supply voltage (Vcc)
since the display doesn’t work satisfactory you could try to short one of the U2/U3 voltage regulators. If you have a multi meter or volt meter. Measure which pin has 3.3V and which pin 5V and then short them. alternatively you can measure the voltage of the pads of C4 connect the pad that measures 3.3V to VCC.
Disclaimer: do this on your own risk.
According to my research, Carl is also technically from the 90s because he was in the '98 pilot.
I think I know who you meant, but I couldn’t point them out in a crowd (and they don’t have an ‘h’).
You’re right! I always thought they had one … so this whole diversion has been a waste of time?
