What kind of crazy package is that flash chip! Nice job looks very compact!
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Looks like a zif socket for the standard soic package the flash chips come in
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Oh snap can release actual carts on lil jellbeans hah
Please
31 ACA-SPI-004-K01 W25Q128 CONN-SMD_ACA-SPI-004-K01 1 ACA-SPI-004-K01 嘉澤端子(LOTES) LCSC C962128 1.538
Finished fiddling with my constructor, but it was worth it … (: I implemented the rda5807m module on my board ArduGame and used the i2c bus… everything turned out to be very compact in the micro board and most likely the module will be attached to the bottom of the board on a flexible cable in the future. The code is written in haste, therefore there may be unexpected moments … but so far everything is ok (: the sketch occupies 57% of the address space of the flash memory. can optimize a little and add other goodies, but even with this functionality everything works ok. sleep mode (power down) implemeted (thanks to mr.Blinky) for this lib. Start image have not inserted yet in code…i think i will update the code soon, but it’s not so important. Anyone interested can try this module on their arduboy.
ArduFM.hex (45.0 KB)
more pictures…new version ArduGame v1.2 with RDA5807m module coming soon!
p.s. constructive criticism is welcome (:
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On a quick glance.
- If the voltage regulator in the lower left is a 3.3V regulator. You don’t need the 3V regulator, the diodes D2, D3, D3, resistors R10, R11 for the flash chip.
- The RGB LED should have a resistor on each of it’s cathodes (at the left side) instead of a single resistor at the common anode (right side)
- With the attiny added, you don’t need R9. The pullup is handled by the attiny (if programmed with the fx-activator firmware ofcourse)
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Thank you, yes, I’ve already thought about it and tried to put temporarily, instead of a 3.0v stabilizer (in the diagram), a diode to reduce the power supply of the flash chip to 3.0v, and then tried to insert a memory chip the other way around? the 3.0V stabilizer for flash memory is burning stably, the chip itself is not burning! since there is not only the probability of this, but also the fact that it is burning, then protection is needed, perhaps the diode in the flash memory power circuit will cope, it is necessary to conduct full-scale tests on the test board and make sure that my assumptions about replacing the stabilizer with a diode are correct. If everything goes well, then you can think about reducing the number of discrete elements used in the circuit.
The rgb led resistor I use intentionally one in the cathode power supply and as the long-term practice of using one resistor instead of three has shown, this does not affect the tasks assigned to this rgb LED and the controller outputs, thereby it allows you to save 2 pcs of resistors with 1k.
About R9, I’ll think about how appropriate it is. Thanks for constructive criticism. )
The W25Q128 datasheet mentions Operating voltage Ranges from 2.7V up to 3.6V so it will be perfectly fine to power with 3.3V
Using one resistor hooked to the common anode will work fine if only one LED is turned on at a time. If for example both red and blue LEDs are turned on you’ll probably only see the red LED light up and not the BLUE one because the forward voltage of the blue LED is much higher then the red one.
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I read the manual and yes you wrote correctly, the power supply of the W25Q128 is within 2.7-3.6V, but then it remains to hope for one diode in the W25Q128 power supply circuit that it will save the situation if suddenly someone wants to flip the flash chip in the socket and the main stabilizer remains intact. I haven’t had time to check it yet and I really want to hope that there won’t be any problems with the main stabilizer.
p.s. I thought if I exclude diodes D2, D3, D4 and resistors R10, R11 from the circuit, I’m not sure that when the entire circuit is powered from USB, the flash memory will function as USB always has 5V, respectively, and all logic levels will be 5v
Yes, that’s right, but when will this be possible?I don’t remember where and when I used to turn on three LEDs at once…and if you use the pulsed glow mode, then the current will be much less and then using one resistor will justify itself! (: Thanks for criticism
I have run the W25Q at 5v it’s probably not a good idea for a long time but I never had any problems 
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…I don’t really like this idea…touch something that has already been functioning quite normally for quite a long time?! We are not removing diamonds from the scheme, so that it would cost much less and function better from this? yes guys … you make me laugh…)
I only consider it necessary to add protection against improper installation of a flash chip and modify the mono + stereo sound mixer so as not to interfere with the receiver’s stereo output and add an i2c connector for external “wishlist” …
At the end of the day it’s your project, do what you want with it otherwise what’s the point of doing something that doesn’t make you happy. If you don’t want suggestions then just ignore them or best yet is don’t ask for them in the first place only to find that the suggestions you receive make you unhappy.
Don’t worry be happy )
we are still masters of our fate. we are still captains of our soul (Winstone Churchill)
…as promised the new release of ArduGame version 1.2 + RDA5807 module works fine.
Happy New Year, everyone.
https://youtu.be/Kg_pvyxNVSY
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already soon … cleaned the front side of the console a little, removed all unnecessary under … added usb type-c replaced the audio output with jack 3.5 pj393 … well, and so on little things … according to the idea, now you can assemble without having a circuit at hand. welcome…
merry christmas everyone
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like 3 whales (diy kit) in Cyrillic, whale and kit are one and the same
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After assembling the version with usb type-c (excluded diodes d2, d3, but left resistors r10, r11, since I do not exclude the fact that I can temporarily exclude attiny85 from the circuit), I discovered the unexpected behavior of the console … the predited version with the same stone and flash memory works fine … any ideas?
troubles…
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