Keyboard Camper's Arduboy Clones

I’m waiting on parts from China but managed to pull a piezo from a carbon monoxide alarm and get started


I hope the alarm wasn’t in use at the time :P.

Remember to test your smoke alarms people :fire::fire_engine:

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Its my job to install new ones so we got a lot to chuck out so its nice to actually need a part from one other than spare batteries for my bite alarms, I’ll have to have a poke around and see what else I can salvage from them… sadly no tactile switches in what I have here.


BMO !! :smiley: That’s so cool. Looks like he’s looking forward to get Arduboyed :smile:

Seeing you and @jesse use a Pro Micro too for a clone. I’m curious how you wired up the pins that are not broken out (OLED CS, speaker pin 2 and rgb green) grounded them or alternate wiring?

I figured @MLXXXp knows his stuff so I’m following this handy post for wiring.

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I totally missed that post when I got started and figured it out the hard way :sweat_I went to assign other pins since I was using a different display and needed to recompile the games. It’s convenient to tie them to GND though if you have a SSD1306 display as you can upload original hex files.

What program did you use to upload HEX? I haven’t gotten any of them to work with my clone.

I’m using AvrDude in combination with a python script. With a shortcut in the send to folder I just right click and upload the hex file with explorer.

Requires Python 2.7.x + PySerial installed.


Thought I would post my first ever breadboard since nobody in my house cares … I finally had a screen arrive, I’m still waiting on buttons so have some wire for an A button but now I feel super special :joy:


Finally some buttons arrived after a reshuffle and sticking the the piezo to the back, now I’m ready for phase 2 and waiting on parts from China again… these things are surprisingly addictive to build.


Does Dark and Under run on the new board?


I just couldn’t resist :grin:

Edit: just to clarify that’s kitchen roll in the background not the other stuff


I just had to have a go at it too now :smiley:

Works nicely with SSD1309 and SH1106 displays after rebuilding :slight_smile:


@Mr.Blinky when you have a moment to spare would you be able to list the dimensions of the screens you have experience with, or possibly suggest the biggest I can fit in an area of between 35 x 35 mm for screen or at a squeeze max pcb size of 40x40 mm

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Looks like the 1.3" one might be the best option. if you can scrape off a bit more of the case then the 1.5" comes into the picture. it’s visable area would look best in your 35x35 window


  • PCB width 35.8mm, height 33.6mm
  • display width 35.3mm, height 23.3mm
  • visible width 29.7mm, height 14.8


  • PCB width 42.2mm, height 37.3mm
  • display width 42.2mm, height 27.3mm
  • visible width 35.6mm, 17.9mm
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Thank you.
At a push the 1.5" might fit in here but it might get a bit tight on the D-pad


I had something similar in mind with the 2.42" one in a SNES controller by removing the Y button. I’ll have to cut away the left and right parts of the displayPCB and supply alternative wiring. But I’m not going to try and an attempt until I’ve got my other clones (including the Pokemon Mini one) finished.

After spending days testing Dark & Under on actual hardware my hands are begging for something with bit more meat to it.

I’ve now moved to playing over prolonged time to using ProjectABE + Controller.

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Make it Post-It size (square) it would look awesome. " There’s no need to use paper Post-Its anymore that will get lost with the slightest breeze. You can now store all of them on your Arduboy XXL using a unique T99 input method" :stuck_out_tongue:

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This is awesome! It positively made my day!!! :):star_struck: