I have finished making my first homemade arduboy. Without the support from this community, I would never have completed this project. Thank you so much for the support, guys!
Above is the finished work. Can be driven by included battery and USB.
Core Pro Micro
Dimensions 110mm x 60mm x 9mm
I started from testing circuit to learn all components I need. At this moment, I had some goals but was not sure if it would be possible.
a. Smaller than iPhone4S.
b. Combenient as general modern mobile phones.
c. Earphone jack.
d. Longer running time.
The smart power management was big issue to me. I got, however, many help and found the way how it can be done. Thank you so much @Mr.Blinky, @eried, @MLXXXp, @uXe, @Pharap, @Hendra, @CDR_Xavier and @Keyboad_Camper!
After finish testing, I started drawing the blueprint.
Main board was made using CNC.
This is the finished main board. Need to solder some jumpers.
Place some components to the main board to see there is any problem. To fit the earphone jack in the thickness of 6mm, I needed to shave it off a little bit. It has 6.20mm height originally.
This is the basic design of D-pad.
The white part on the left is the rubber button of D-pad. I got it as a repair part for Playstation4.
3D printed parts was rough so I did some treatment.
This is the finished D-pad. Looks pretty smooth, doesn’t it?
Casing became a bit complex because I needed to enclose everything into a small space. The limitation of 3D printing affect to the complexity as well.
The material of casing wall is ABS. ABS shrinks after printing. First I made with the size of 100% the checked how small it became. From that, I figured out the multiplier was 100.55%.
Cutting the top plate and bottom plate.
I used 0.5t carbon fiber sheet. This choice enabled me to get enough stiffness of the casing even though it was slim enough.
The “Arduboy” logo on the top would be lit by RGB led when it booted up. Cool, isn’ it?
Great work … and I love the progress shots!
I cut off some part of SH1106 to fit it in the space. I did not own a x-ray (of course!) so I did not know if it was really ok to cut. It was a bit gambling but yeah, it seems I won the bet.
Sliding switch, charging module, 5v step up, oled display, RGB led… So many parts in a small space. This area was probably the most difficult part to design and build but I managed it some how.
Spacing looked ok. Keep working!
The bracket on the battery has been designed for SPI port for the future. I have never implemented it yet, though.
These small black parts were designed to prevent D-pad from slipping. They are small but they do their job!
Now all components placed nicely in the casing.
It took nearly a month but it was a very fun journey.
Again, I really like to say thank you for everyone who helped me to make this happen.
Comments and advices are always welcome!
It looks awesome, very well designed. Carbon plates FTW. What did you use for the D-Pad treatment?
Thank you. For the treatment, I use these TAMIYA surface primer for nylon/pp, color spray and sand paper.
Awesome work man! Have you though about making a second one with a larger screen?
Wow! I love how everything is laid out so precisely!
@James1 Yes, I am waiting for my SSD1309 now!
First of all, congrats.
I am almost ENVY that you have a WORKING 3D printer (i had one that make plasic biscuits when printing anythinig hollow, and plastic bricks with one side higher than the other when printing solid things)
and a cutting station!
I have to do all the cuts in all of my projects IN PERSON, with a power drill, sand paper, cutting knife, a hacksaw(because it cuts slower and I sometimes work with metal) and often get little cuts and bruises.
Heck was you lucky.
One thing: It seems to be UNCOMFORTABLY BIG for me.
What is the height? Because I was planning fitting everything onto a DEV Board (for Ardiuno Leoardo)–you know, buttons, LED, buzzers and screen front, power module and battery on the back and everything else(coated jumper wires) in between , which is GONE (sadness)
so that’s a 2cm tall sandwitch (1.5cm for the board and the battery and the power module, 5mm for buttons and display) with VISIBLE wires and stuff (but no loose wires)
So you just connected the chrger to the powe pins on the micro
But that does not explain what the switch do…
I guess the CR2032-like metal object is the buzzer…
Thanks for your impression!
Height? Do you mean thickness? Well, then it is 9mm. My homemade one is pretty tiny and very easy to carry so now I bring it almost everywhere I go, hehe.
My visions are very weak ( I have serious vision problem for both eyes because of multiple injury of retina detach…) so I really need CNC and 3D printer stuff for making anything small and solid. Regarding the use of 3D printer, did you use some glue to prevent it from making plastic rubbishes? It really helps to avoid getting mal printing. Also the serious level adjustment is the key of working with a 3D printer…
About the battery, I did exactly what Mr.Blinky suggested in other thread. The way works just perfect!
AFTER adjustment, the thing prints one side higher than the other.
It was the DUMB ShenZhen Company that uses a custom Arduino board for the mere circuitry we got
and the wiring diagram is wrong.
My father’s a decent optometrist in china that fixes those problems…
Sounds you had tough luck…
How did you adjust the table to be level? The table should be level against the header nozzle.
As long as the header guides rails are straight, the header should be on a flat plane otherwise the header cannot move smooth.
So all you have to do is to make the distances between the four corner of the table and the nozzle tip.
Move the header to x=0; y=0 and adjust the height of the corner of the table.
Move the header to x=0; y=maximum and adjust the height of the corner of the table.
Move the header to x=maximum; y=0 and adjust the height of the corner of the table.
Move the header to x=maximum; y=maximum and adjust the height of the corner of the table.
Now you get the table almost the level against the plane in which the header move around.
I use a piece of paper to make the distance the same. I just put it between the header nozzle and table when I adjust the height of the each corner. Of course you can repeat the above procedure until you are really satisfy with result.
If you have never tried this method, try it whenever you feel ok to do so.
It’s one of those DUMB tri-pod printers that swing around
And if you don’t do the wiring correctly, it will keep hurting itself and (had already burned a stepper motor and wrecked a belt)
We assembled it over 3 hours. The quality seem trash, as (assembled four month ago) there is rust on the rails already
That trash worth 250$
Yes, one of the 3DS (My dad’ collegue owned a Cube 1) will be good.
In fact, it is so good that it prints on a glass surface, and a special water-dissolve glue to hold the thing (the table moves Z and Y while head move X), so you just take off the glass surface (held down by a magnet) and plop the thing in water. Don’t even need scraping stuff or heatbed.
A ROOK (hollow chess model with built-in stairs) it prints was enough to sustain two leg of the chair with my dad sitting on top of it.
The collegue lost the filament tube, so I had to pull out some loose filament. (and once I pulled out too many so I still have a roll of it sitting on the table)
Dad returned it, but he can have it back during summer holiday
Yes, it is AWESOME, but yes, it cost you 4 iPads. ( I bet it is around 1500$)
nooooooooooooooooo yeah it is still there. I know someone will buy it (me! )
I prefer ABS then the PLA.
If I am in U.S. and have money, I will buy a Cube 2 RIGHT NOW.
but seems like they are mot making them. But they didn’t say it. Hmmm…
I bet there are ones on Amazon still.
call THIS some decent stuff.
If i had money, i had to buy a 3D printer too… So many things to do or try
Enough talk on 3D printers, though.