Pro micro and Kong

I have been struggling with a problem for a couple of days. I have loaded Kong onto a home made Arduboy and after doing so it will no longer be recognised by the PC. After looking through the help guides I am assuming that Kong must either use some of the space for the USB stack or corrupt it in some way!?!? I was at one point pulling out my hair as I was sitting with two piles of Pro Micros from different suppliers having loaded Kong onto two of each and finding that they were then not detectable on the PC. I was thinking I had managed to order two batches of faulty boards from two suppliers. This is what stress does to your brain. Got 8 kids at school starting to build these into Arduboys next week. Then reason and logic kicked in and I read the support on this (thank god) valuable resource.
Looks like I need to earth the res pin on the board to ground at a certain point when preparing to upload a sketch to kick the boot loader into operation. My god it sounds like I know what I am talking about : ) Going to give this a try tomorrow but does this sound about right? Thinking that it will be a good idea to add a ptm switch into the PCB design to make it easy to get over this issue in the future.
Anyway I was just wondering if this is a regular issue with Kong and the Pro Micro?

In the past we have used Mystic Balloon to test boards / arduboy circuits and I am guessing that this uses a smaller amount of memory and does not produce the same issue.

I also came across the flashlight solution where you press the down button on an actual Arduboy and keep it pushed when uploading a sketch. Should this work on a standard 5v wired DIY arduboy or just the official one?

Well … its not just Kong. I have removed the USB stack for a number of games as I simply ran out of space. Its not an issue with the FX due to its bootloader incorporating a return to bootloader sequence (press and hold the up and down buttons).

With the Kong code, you can add the return to bootloader sequence into the game by uncommenting the following code in the TitleScreenState.cpp code

and this line in the TitleScreenState.h file:

This should work on all devices as its part of the bootloader. However, some games remove this ability. Kong however retains it, so you can give it a go.

Thanks. However, what does “uncommenting” the code mean? You are dealing with a self taught school teacher here you know :laughing:.
If I had your knowledge I could get a proper job :grinning:.
On a serious note thanks for the help.

Actually, don’t worry I looked it up on Google. :+1:
Thanks mate.

LOL … teaching would be incredibly hard for me!

Anyhow, in the line of code below you will see it is prefixed with // which disables the code and makes it a comment. To ‘uncomment’ code is to simply remove the // from in front of the code. WHen you compile the code again and upload it to your homemade Arduboy, the compiler will see it as code and include it.

So you will need to ‘uncomment’ lines 55 through 69 in the file TitleScreenState.cpp and line 13 in TitleScreenState.h.

Then when you are playing Kong, you just need to hold the Down button for a few seconds when you are on the title screen and upload a new game simultaneously. It might take a few attempts to get the timing right but it will work.

But I would try the flashlight technique first as the game is already on the machine.

I’d recommend to add a little reset button to your DIY arduboy as there are quite a few games that have the USB code removed.

Also in Arduino IDE preferences, make sure both checkboxes at the ‘Show verbose output during’ are checked. When these are checked you will see a series of comport messages when you upload a sketch. When you press the reset button at that time the sketch will upload without problems.

Thanks. Quite sad but I am looking forward to going into work on Sunday to get this going.

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Oh I just realised you upload the games using the Homemade package right? In that case you can also press the UP + DOWN buttons for two seconds and the pro micro enters bootloader mode just like pressing reset does.

Excellent … your right, the homemade package enables that.

But of course, you have just killed his excuse to go into work and play with his toys.

Did you have any success?

Thanks for the help. I didn’t have any luck with the two button reset but thinking about it now I may not have held them down long enough. Shorting out the res and gnd worked a treat. Got my original two layer one working. Also nearly finished a second with the larger 1.3 inch screen and a reset button on the PCB. Also realized that kids could just leave a small hole in their case so they can reset the pro micro with the blade of a small screwdriver as the two pins are right next to each other.

A productive Sunday at work :+1:


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Looks good and like something even I could make (I am crap at soldering).

Nice! I like the engraved PCB. Just curious does it use the standard or alternate wiring scheme?

It’s the standard. However, due to a mistake I had to put a couple of wire jumps in on the back of the board. Normally use zero ohm resistors. Found the solution to my issues with the 1309 screen. Order of these arrived today from a different supplier. Clearly the one I was playing with was faulty in some way. New ones work like a dream. It’s all coming together. Next got to sort out how to engrave double sided boards. Great fun.