Production Arduboy Schematic


(Scott) #21

I’ve got my home made unit, and a few other ATmega32u4 based Arduino compatible products that I could test, if code was made available. These all accept external power, so I could use a variable output power supply instead of a battery.

The only problem is that all my devices have a capacitor on AREF, so the readings may be a bit more stable than an actual Arduboy. Other than that, there’s no need for an actual Arduboy if the test program outputs it’s readings to Serial. I can compare the outputted readings to the actual voltage the power supply is providing.

The program is simple:

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(9600);
}

void loop() {
  int a;

  // Do whatever it takes to read VCC and convert it to volts.
  // This could include multiple sample with filtering/smoothing if it helps.
  a = getVoltage();

  Serial.println(a);
  delay(1000);
}

(Duncan Young) #22

Hi all,bit off subject,gambuino bootloader etc works on this,great for uploading games from sd card,just need to recompile the open source bootloader and place arduboy logo instead of gamebuino,sweet,ime gona have a pcb made up of it,watch this space;-)


(Kevin) #23

Yep we talked about this and we are looking at SD card in the future, excited to see what you come up with!


(Duncan Young) #24

Any idea what this error is,ime havin g trouble compiling this bootloader?


(Kevin) #25

Could very well need a custom make file or something? Probably better to ask on the gamebuino forums? Or would that create a war? lol… Rodot did pre-order an arduboy. I should probably return the favor!


(koteitan) #26

Can I have the pattern layout of the circuit of Arduboy 1.0?
Some lands are come off so that I want to find where to peel the regist…


(Ross) #27

Agreed, I’ve followed your post here…
http://community.arduboy.com/t/topic/1794/21?u=ekem

It would be extremely helpful for the the actual schematic to be available at this point. Although it’s still a project that’s just finished being Kickstarted, it’s in a lot of hands now. It’s sort of hurting everyone who hacks to not know the layout for sure. I’m pretty interested in seeing your process in getting a bootloader on there @koteitan. If @bateske doesn’t release a schematic or something to help, and you trash your board on accident, I’ll buy you a new one myself :D. Assuming I’m not in the “brokeverse” at the time.

Good stuff, glad you are making some progress.


#28

He patiently found the problem.
But His Arduboy Pins(SPI parts) is broken.
he used soldering iron.

The physical connection of the SPI is difficult.

I agree @ekem of speech.

…If I was Official Staff and no idea, I would send him a new arduboy :slight_smile:


(Kevin) #29

The schematic is the top post of this thread! Are they looking for board files? Confused!


#30

@bateske is it possible to get the eagle schematic file (not looking for the board file) ? I’d like to make a few changes for better guidance.


(Kevin) #31

Maybe? Can you write arduboy.com/contact with some more details and I’ll see if I can dig it up. (It’s actually in a backup hard drive by this point)


#32

:+1: Filled in the contact form :slight_smile:


(Pieter Vanormelingen) #33

Hello I am new here but I have a question about the schematic of the arduboy.
What is the value of the 3 resistors and 3 diodes on pin PB5, PB6 and PB7.
I don’t understand what there function is.

I’m trying to understand how the schematic is build for a project at my university, but even my teacher doesn’t understand this part.

I hoop that someone can help me.


#34

That’s the RGB LED - resistor values are going to depend on the LED(s) you use (pinout table from https://community.arduboy.com/t/12-arduboy-compatible-system/236/359):

Arduboy function

Arduboy / Leonardo / Micro

OLED CS

12 PORTD6

OLED DC

4 PORTD4

OLED RST

6 PORTD7

SPI SCK

15 PORTB1

SPI MOSI

16 PORTB2

RGB LED RED

10 PORTB6

RGB LED GREEN

11 PORTB7

RGB LED BLUE

9 PORTB5

RxLED

PORTB0

TxLED

PORTD5

BUTTON UP

A0 PORTF7

BUTTON RIGHT

A1 PORTF6

BUTTON LEFT

A2 PORTF5

BUTTON DOWN

A3 PORTF4

BUTTON A (left)

7 PORTE6

BUTTON B (right)

8 PORTB4

SPEAKER PIN 1

5 PORTC6

SPEAKER PIN 2

13 PORTC7


#35

Like @uXe said it’s a RGB LED (Light emitting Diodes) which has a red, green and blue LED in a single package. The Arduboy uses one of the common anode type meaning the anodes (positive side) of the red, green and blue LED are tied together internally (this is the longest pin).

The resistors function is to limit the current flowing through the LEDs. I don’t know which values Arduboy exactly uses. But it depends on the RGB LED being used anyway. For a good white balance you’d have to check out the RGB LED’s datasheet. But if you’re not to picky about that you could just use a couple of 1K ohm resistors. If you want them extremely bright you could use some 220 ohm resistors.

When you get a common anode RGB LED get a diffused one (miky plastic case) and not a clear one.


(Scott) #36

The actual values that the Arduboy uses are 220 ohm on all 3 LEDs but these aren’t really a good choice. They should be balanced for each colour because each colour operates at a different voltage, and the brightness relative to the current will be different for each as well. Also, the Arduboy’s LEDs tend to be a little bright overall.

As @uXe said, the resistor values will depend on the particular RGB LED that you use. It will also depend on the supply voltage (such as whether you run from regulated 5V or a battery voltage). So, it’s best to experiment to find suitable values. I would start with 1K for red and blue, and 3.3K for green.

P.S. The schematic should have used the LED symbol (with the “light emission” arrows), like LED1 and LED2, for the RGB LEDs, instead of the regular diode symbol.


(Pieter Vanormelingen) #37

Thanks for the help,

But I still have a question about the battery protection.

Can someone tell me which components are used to make the battery protection and what the “FTD2017” is?

I don’t understand way this component is short to it self.

Also what is the component in the middel of the battery protection? There is no reference to is or info what it is.

Thank you in advance for the help.


(Scott) #38

The FTD2017 is just two MOSFET transistors contained in the same package.

The other component is a dedicated one cell lithium-ion/polymer battery protection IC. It’s probably a DW01-P or similar.

http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/sanyo/ds_pdf_e/FTD2017.pdf


(Kevin) #39

3 posts were split to a new topic: Troubleshooting homemade Arduboy schematic


(Andy Sloane) #40

Sorry to resurrect an old topic, but I was poking around the sound hardware last night and I noticed C12 (the DC blocking cap in series with the pizeo element) was replaced with a 220-ohm resistor.

Is there a more up-to-date schematic or is that the only change?