ProjectABE (ArduBoy Emulator) released!

(Felipe Manga) #265

That’s what it does, sorta. It sends a g, 0, 0, 0 (an invalid read) every second after the flash.
According to this, an invalid read would reset the Timeout without actually doing anything.

So the Rx led blinks and the device doesn’t reboot.

(Scott R) #266

Not so much, it doesn’t boot into the game to avoid a flashing loop so we have to rely on blink.

(Simon) #267

Its not showing up itself. That screenshot was from a a second Arduboy I have.


Smart. BTW it’s not an invalid read. Just a read of zero bytes.

(Felipe Manga) #269

Is it? Isn’t the third parameter supposed to be either E or F?


Eh right I mistakenly read that as ‘g’, 0,0,‘F’

EDIT: Removed quotes from '0’s

(Felipe Manga) #271

Aside from ignoring certain device paths (/dev/*Bluetooth*, /dev/tty.usb*) anybody have any better idea on knowing what devices we aren’t supposed to flash? Can’t depend on the VID/PIDs for this, they’re the same on all four paths.

(Simon) #272

I have tried the dead Arduboy at work .on a Windows machine. No good as it isn’t even recognised as a USB device.

(Felipe Manga) #273

Is the programmer an option?

(Simon) #274

I am not sure. I understood to use the programmer, I need to pull apart the Arduboy and either hold some wires to the tracks / solder wires to the track / use the pogo connectors. Is this the only way you know of?

(Felipe Manga) #275

If it’s not showing up, then the bootloader isn’t responding. AFAIK, the programmer is the way to go. I’m not sure about how the wiring is set up on an Arduboy. I was under the impression that it’s not that hard to do.

(Scott R) #276

If using just wires you’ll want an extra hand it’s a bit tricky on your own.
Once everything is hooked up it’s pretty much as simple as uploading a sketch in the ide.
The important bit is not to mix up the voltages like I did and fry it…

(Simon) #277

Mix up the voltages? My programmer is for an arduino … so are there two voltages 5V and 3.3V? I assume the Arduboy is 3.3??

(Scott) #278

The Arduboy runs at the raw battery voltage. Anywhere between around 3.2 to 4.2 volts.

(Scott R) #279

If using a cheap USBAsp don’t use 3v I learnt the hard way.

(Simon) #280

I assumed the issue was with the output from the programmer - not the Arduboy itself?

(Scott) #281

It depends on where the power is coming from.

If you leave the Arduboy switched off and feed power from the programmer to the Arduboy’s Vcc, then it’s best to run at 3.3V so as not to feed 5V into the display.

If the Arduboy provides its own power from its battery, by switching it on while programming, then it’s still best to run at 3.3V but you run the risk of feeding 4.2V signals into the programmer. This could damage the programmer if its inputs can’t tolerate that 4.2V

(Scott R) #282

And this is exactly how I toasted mine without a modified programmer.

I’ve had no issues using the same programmer over half a dozen times with the jumper at 5v.

(Kevin) #283

For troubleshooting a specific issue, it might be better to start a new thread.

(Felipe Manga) #284

Blacklisted the Mac’s Bluetooth/tty devices and tested at work:


  • The log shows two uploads because the camera man messed up the first. :stuck_out_tongue:
  • The errors are expected, they indicate that the device has rebooted and the connection was closed.
  • The wire on the board keeps it in flashlight mode, making it easier to test 100 times.