Scootmatt's Arduboy Clone

Thanks for posting this thread, it has genuinely inspired me to get off my butt and do something cool.

I ordered my Arduboy from the Webstore a couple of weeks ago and I had already been to these community pages, so I was fully aware of how long I might wait until delivery. I was happy to wait as long as needed because the Arduboy is just cool!

I’m in the UK and this thread inspired me to try building my own “Hackduboy” so that I can start coming up with cool game ideas and testing them right away. So I did it.

1 x Clone of Arduino Pro Micro (actually a clone of a clone!) [£5.19 delivered, ebay]
1 x 0.96" SPI While OLED 128x64 [£5.76 delivered, ebay]
2 x Piezo Electric Speaker [£1.49 for both delivered, ebay]
1 x 4 Channel Logic Level Converter [£1.95 delivered, ebay]
1 x 3.3v Regulator for OLED [just found in spares]
some breadboard, microswitches and wire [just found in spares]
[TOTAL = £14.39 + some bits I had already]

Everything was delivered in 3 days, after the hardware build and some ‘#define’ tweeks everything works! :slight_smile: . So now I can start writing those games. I would recommend this process to anyone who has ordered an Arduboy and is itching to start. It’s nice to get familiar with the hardware and for me it has just made me more excited about getting the “real Arduboy” in the post.

You can probably tell that i’m a happy bunny right now :stuck_out_tongue:

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Could you post a close-up photo of the back of the OLED display, or examine it yourself? There’s a good chance that it has an on board 3.3V regulator.

If this is the case, then it may be better to power the display’s VCC pin from 5V and only use the output of the 3.3V regulator that you added for the LV power pin on the level converter.

I’m not 100% convinced there is a 3.3v reg but as I already had one I thought it would be best to be safe and not risk blowing the display.

The three terminal chip at the upper right, marked 662K, is a LM6206N3 3.3V regulator. Its input is connected to the VCC pin and the 3.3V output powers the display.

The reason that I say you should put 5V on the VCC pin is that the regulator requires a voltage higher than 3.3V on its input in order to provide a regulated 3.3V output. If you feed it a voltage less than the minimum “dropout voltage” then you’ll get less than 3.3V out.

So, if the display’s VCC pin is at 3.3V, the display’s internal supply will be less than 3.3V but the input signals that you’re feeding it will still be at 3.3V from the level converter. It’s better not to have input signals that are at a higher voltage than the voltage powering the display logic.

Putting 5V on the VCC pin will result in a full 3.3V output from the on board regulator, thus matching the voltage of the inputs.

You should still use your external regulator to provide 3.3V to the LV pin of the level shifter.

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Sure. I will do. Thanks for the pointer.

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Wicked awesome man this is incredible!

Is that stereo?

@ekem can you give this man one of those internet badge things? :100:

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Thanks, and yeah! The speakers came as a pair so I figured I would go full stereo :slight_smile: . The OLED is a 0.96" version so some of the games are teeny weeny (blob attack), but I literally can’t wait for my Arduboy in the post. I only pre-ordered 3 weeks ago from the web store, so I understand I’m in for a lengthy wait.

Any rough idea when you might get around to the web store pre-orders? 2016? :grin: