Should I buy an SMD Rework Heat Gun? If so, Which One?

(Apologies if this is the wrong category or not really relevant) but does anyone have advice on picking a good, reliable, and high Wattage SMD rework heat gun? I’ve seen this one at my local Jaycar:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/300w-hot-air-smd-rework-station/p/TS1645?pos=1&queryId=cac916ff49fcfad6d71fc8fe74439bb2
I like it for it’s price but I wanted to ask if anyone had a better recommendation to either save me some pennies or get a better quality one. I should also factor in that I’m not going to be using it right now so there it’ll be sitting around for a while (Or I can yoink a few ATMega32U4’s from my broken pro micros for my Version 4 Homemade Arduboy while I’m finishing up the design, keep an eye out for it :eyes:). I’ve had my soldering iron (From the same brand) for 2 months now and it’s served me really well, I like putting in the extra money for high quality.

I am aware of flux paste for even heat distribution and solder paste so I’ll look into those myself as well.

I am looking to do small, precise jobs with it from time to time.

Hello, this is totally a fine channel for this!

For beginner all the way to advanced pretty much any hot air tool you buy that is made for re-work is going to work fine. They all should have temperature and flow control, and come with a few different sizes of tips. I have a really cheap one, use it all the time works great.

I think I might have paid between $50 and $70 USD for it, you really don’t need to go fancy. The actual iron, that’s a different story because the temperature control when you are touching stuff sinking the heat out is really important. Hot air tool is really just a fancy blowdryer.

Flux paste/gel is critical!! So is having solder wick to clean up after.

I say go for it, it’s actually surprisingly easy. In some ways it’s kind of easier because with paste it is kind of “magic” how everything can pop into place. The real key to remember with solder is that it’s really all about getting the perfect marriage of surface tension and chemical bond between the pad and the solder. The surface tension is what creates the mechanical connection and almost more importantly “makes it easier” to soldier, as it “does the work for you”. The chemical bond part is just making sure you don’t have a “cold joint” or are dealing with clean pads/components.

I’m a huge dork for this stuff, I actually watch this guys channel for fun sometimes, kind of ASMR type activity for me lol:

Tons of great tips, he is really good and fast at what he does. But in general I would also recommend just watching a lot of videos online about it and just keep trying. It really is an art form so you will get better at it with experience there is really no other way. Educating yourself on it makes it go faster.

Seriously everyone should learn to solder!

Thanks for the reply @bateske! It’s definitely convinced me to go out and buy the one I linked. It does come with spare tip sizes so I can use it for smaller or larger applications. I’ve found a flux pen or flux paste that could be applied with a q-tip but I’ll have a look around. I’ll be buying it tomorrow with a few other little extra things. I’ll check out NorthridgeFix a bit for any guides or tips he may have. But I might as well buy it now even though I won’t use it a whole lot, I know as I get further down the track I’ll be using it for more often.

(By the way I’ve messaged you about checking some of my schematics, do you think you could take the time at some point to have a read through please?)

Just bought it! Desoldered some pro micros and it went really well! I have some others attached to broken PCBs so I’ll be removing all the components from those as well. I had 2 small packets with a pro micro in each. But I’m looking to buy some anti-static resealable bags so I don’t break anything.

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