Hey y’all, so I’ve been doing a ton of 3D printing lately and came across @Karsten_Fredsgaard_T’s Arduboy GB case (Incredible work btw, I love this design). I printed a couple front cases, one for the 1.3" screen and one resized using tinkercad for a 0.96" screen. I had a few 0.96" OLEDs lying around and two pro micros left, so I gathered all the scrap components I could find, took apart one of those vape pen chargers, and slapped it all together before realizing the red RGB led pin was broken.
So I jammed a single red 3mm LED in there right next to the RGB and finally it was ready. Almost. The USB data lines were broken and trying to fix it made it worse:
(this happens really often with cheap pro micros, half the time I end up super-gluing it beforehand because the connectors are so flimsy). I tried my luck trying to re-solder it but eventually got frustrated, gutted the whole thing, and started over. But this second time around was perfect! Now I’ve got this teeny tiny DMG-style Arduboy with an ugly USB charger sticking out of the bottom because I was too lazy to do anything more discreet with the battery charging circuit
For scale, this is next to a production arduboy:
Hah it plugs right into the computer!
Yes, but only for charging right now! I was thinking about going the extra mile to connect it to the data and power lines of the pro micro so that it could upload through that fat usb, but was too tired of working on it to do so lol. Though I might do that at some point, it’d be pretty cute. Would probably need to move the reset button to the side (it’s just next to the charging usb right now)
I’ve tried connecting the d- and d+, it failed horrendously since 1) I don’t have any sort of zoom tools, 2) I was using silicone coated wire. I highly suggest picking up some laminated copper wire for very precise wiring like that.
What was the issue with the silicone coated wire? How exactly did it fail horrendously?
If you have trouble soldering to the USB pads. You can also try and solder the wires to the 22 ohm USB resistors connected to those pads.
The stranded wire was too thick/too many, laminated copper wire is just one of those tiny intertwined wires.
Ah, yes. Even the old twist n’ tin for the multistrand wires isn’t quite pinpoint enough unless you go for the resistors @Mr.Blinky mentioned. I do have some enameled copper wire laying around (do people say laminated elsewhere, like a colloquial thing? It makes sense, I’ve just only seen/heard it called enameled wire here), so it’s definitely an option! I usually end up using the extra length of the leads from resistors. Clipped resistor & LED leads are great for projects when you needa sturdy, thin wire that’s easy to solder to. The only issue with my usual method is that the leads are not insulated, so if I don’t want it to short, I need to place everything perfectly, try really hard not to stress the solder joints, and either hot glue (for testing) or superglue (final) the leads to the data and power lines so that they’re insulated & also strengthened from popping off.