Transparent OLED



(Kevin) #15

It really is very transparent! I guess technically translucent but its very good!

That horizontal line in the bottom of the screen I think is an adhesive bonding the layers together?? On a standard OLED this doesn’t matter because you can’t see it but…

It appears to be in the active matrix layer. The screen is oddly sold as 56 vertical pixels… is it actually 64 pixels, but the last 8 are obscured by the glue? That’s my guess.

This is pretty weird, I would assume there are bonding agents that could be used that are transparent. That idicates to me these screens exist for a specific customer that requested to take the black layer out of the OLED, changing the glue would have required a lot of investment in R&D to figure out what would work in manufacturing process, and if it’s something new they would have to test it in large batches before they knew the yield of a unproven process.

So the customer probably just decided, that’s ok we can block out the bottom 8 pixel area with a shroud.

I am very curious what the application for these are. HUD makes some kind of sense, but I think it would be too close to your face to be viewable? I mean, that’s probably what I’m going to make out of it because the #internet demands it.

(Scott R) #16

It’s like a tiny window to another world in your hand.

Two of those clipped to a baseball cap wired to a power glove should do the trick for awesomeness.

(Kevin) #17

Yah it’s for sure gonna get made into some kind of HUD, I don’t think it will work in practice but it will look cool and maybe even get me an article on hackaday!

Need to learn some CAD so I can 3d print up a head mount enclosure.

(Scott R) #18

These would work well with a monster battle game that used a accelerometer to change the viewing angle.

Something like Digimon x Pokemon go

(Shawn) #19

That would be very odd, I assume the active oled layer physically really only has 56 vertical pixels, just the controller is standard ots and the lower 8 row drives are just not connected. This is a very common practice, for instance a lot of e-ink screens of different resolutions actually use the exact same cog controller, and on the lower resolution screens although you can set the pixel data outside the visible area in memory they physically do nothing. The black adhesive tape probably serves two purposes, to cover the exposed cog controller chip which would otherwise be sensitive to light (dave jones of eevblog fame did a video where using a camera flash on a raspberry pi crashes and resets it because the onboard regulator is a flip chip package without encapsulation). Secondarily it secures the flex to glass bond a bit.

(Kevin) #20

The chip on glass is located under the black epoxy layer, lower down closer to the flexible pin connector. The little gray line of different lengths and different locations and does not have any traces coming in or out of it.

It’s very clear the physical active matrix is displayed over this line. And just from my eyeball measurements, it sure seems like a 2:1 aspect ratio but, yeah I could be off by 8 pixels.

I’m waiting on the board connector to boot one of these up, then we will see.

Very interesting either way! I still can’t think of an effective use case that would warrant it’s manufacture though!

(Shawn) #21

I kinda wanna get one of these transparent oleds, mount it in front of my eye, and randomly have it flash “over 9000” when I point it at things. Too bad the ribbon doesn’t exit the side to make it cleaner to mount as a hud.

(Pharap) #22

If you turn it upside down so the ribbon is on the top then you could probably make the top thick enough to hide and/or contort the ribbon.
It’s not quite the same, but it’s probably close enough.

Now all we need is that circular display in green…

(Kevin) #23

Yeah side exit might be better for that application, but good thing flexible connectors are flexible:

(Kevin) #24

obligatory at this point

(Kevin) #25

$400+ on ebay, I think I’ve finally found a use for a 3d printer. When you need to make your own heads up display unit.

They are actually ok to look through. I’m extremely curious at what distance I can focus on.

(Scott R) #26

It goes on you’re head? I thought it was some sort of female breastplate.

How close can you focus on the screen with an Arduboy anything less than around 6-8 inches is a blur.

I found a use for my 3D printer, it’s making parts for the 3D printer.

(Kevin) #27

(Pharap) #28

I can manage 10cm. Anything less and I can see it but it’s uncomfortable.
Also it’s hard to see it with the Arduboy in front of just one eye.
I think realistically you’d need two screens, one for each eye, like VR glasses.

Although, I wonder if putting a lens in front would make a difference?
Perhaps with the right lens the screen would appear to be further away?
But then you’d need another lens on the other side to cancel that out,
otherwise you wouldn’t be able to see where you’re going properly.

(Kevin) #29

I think the trick is spacing it just right so it’s not totally in focus but you are able to make out the image just fine. In fact, being slightly out of focus may be a positive effect, if you can get it “just right” as it will give a kind of aliasing effect to the pixels.


When I first saw this I thought it was some kind of cyber bra :smile:

I wonder if the brigth OLED pixels aren’t harmful on such short distances to the eye.

Maybe make some binoculars instead? you can put buttons on top too. Just like these vintage tomytronic 3D games

(Kevin) #31



The idea is not terrible

So, I can’t wait to try this actually. Because putting the screens at a distance of where glasses sit, it nearly fills the full view, and doesn’t block too much actually. Assuming the brightness and sharpness work, this could be pretty interesting.

It would bring new meaning to

"AR"duboy… eh? eh? Anyone? ARduboy?

(Scott R) #32


I used to love the tomytronic shark game

(Kevin) #33

Well, that’s it I mean apparently it’s been done at much higher resolution with better screens.

Motivation -10