Transparent OLED

(Shawn) #21

I kinda wanna get one of these transparent oleds, mount it in front of my eye, and randomly have it flash “over 9000” when I point it at things. Too bad the ribbon doesn’t exit the side to make it cleaner to mount as a hud.

(Pharap) #22

If you turn it upside down so the ribbon is on the top then you could probably make the top thick enough to hide and/or contort the ribbon.
It’s not quite the same, but it’s probably close enough.

Now all we need is that circular display in green…

(Kevin) #23

Yeah side exit might be better for that application, but good thing flexible connectors are flexible:

(Kevin) #24

obligatory at this point

(Kevin) #25

$400+ on ebay, I think I’ve finally found a use for a 3d printer. When you need to make your own heads up display unit.

They are actually ok to look through. I’m extremely curious at what distance I can focus on.

(Scott R) #26

It goes on you’re head? I thought it was some sort of female breastplate.

How close can you focus on the screen with an Arduboy anything less than around 6-8 inches is a blur.

I found a use for my 3D printer, it’s making parts for the 3D printer.

(Kevin) #27

(Pharap) #28

I can manage 10cm. Anything less and I can see it but it’s uncomfortable.
Also it’s hard to see it with the Arduboy in front of just one eye.
I think realistically you’d need two screens, one for each eye, like VR glasses.

Although, I wonder if putting a lens in front would make a difference?
Perhaps with the right lens the screen would appear to be further away?
But then you’d need another lens on the other side to cancel that out,
otherwise you wouldn’t be able to see where you’re going properly.

(Kevin) #29

I think the trick is spacing it just right so it’s not totally in focus but you are able to make out the image just fine. In fact, being slightly out of focus may be a positive effect, if you can get it “just right” as it will give a kind of aliasing effect to the pixels.


When I first saw this I thought it was some kind of cyber bra :smile:

I wonder if the brigth OLED pixels aren’t harmful on such short distances to the eye.

Maybe make some binoculars instead? you can put buttons on top too. Just like these vintage tomytronic 3D games

(Kevin) #31



The idea is not terrible

So, I can’t wait to try this actually. Because putting the screens at a distance of where glasses sit, it nearly fills the full view, and doesn’t block too much actually. Assuming the brightness and sharpness work, this could be pretty interesting.

It would bring new meaning to

"AR"duboy… eh? eh? Anyone? ARduboy?

(Scott R) #32


I used to love the tomytronic shark game

(Kevin) #33

Well, that’s it I mean apparently it’s been done at much higher resolution with better screens.

Motivation -10


Well you could make a a three layer peepshow box then. Put some objects in between the layers and have a little character walk around. when it walks into the depth it changes layers and can walk/hide behind the objects.

(Kevin) #35

This would only be cool to me if you had like at least 20 or so of them. Might be kind of cool but I would expect after about 10 or so it might be difficult to see in.


Arduboy + sunglasses
It sounds fine as the two displays can use the same wiring. Controller connected to pogo pins via extra long ribbon cables.
8-bit Microsoft Holonens?

I might build one with Arduino Micro if I had enough motivation to.

The ribbon cable goes on top, as usual.
We can in fact cut it very short and have the PCB connector right next to it, make that into the 7-pin SPI and then send it over to the sides.
Or, have the ribbon cable wrap around that PCB, if one is not willing to cut it short.

I just spend some 20 hours building these boxes for my Studio Art class to give me a B-. Not again in my life.
But the round one (especially with the ribbon cable attached below) give me the idea of a watch …

(Kevin) #37

I just realized this display needs an external 12v so now I gotta get a boost converter module.


That 12V is cotrolling the OLEDs brightness. You could just hook it to 5V and see if the pixels are bright enough.

(Shawn) #39

Strictly speaking the 12V is the high side OLED supply drive (which in turn affects brightness) with the low side being multiplexed by something like open-drain outputs on the controller. The 3.3V is only for logic but lots of breakout boards use it with a boost converter to generate the Voled.

(Kevin) #40

Meh, amazon prime will be bringing me these today: