Xavier's Arduboy Shield


I am not feeling like reviving the Arduboy Shield topic.

I’m, as he goes, aiming for a more permanent Arduboy other than some breadboard that will fall apart a second after I push the button (understand the quality of the ones I get).
So I went ahead and soldered the buttons and the RGB LED (I made sure it’s common Anode.)
I am planning on giving it three adjustable resisters of 2K for the R, G, and B lights, but I’m feeling lazy and installed just one 2K for the common cathode.

My Display is supposedly SSD1306. Now the trouble is that, according to @Mr.Blinky, this is said:

| OLED RST | 6  PORTD7 |
| SPI SCK  | 15 PORTB1 |
| SPI MOSI | 16 PORTB2 |

But my display don’t have those. It had RES(reset ?), D0 (data 0) and D1 (data 1)
This display supposedly support I2C, SPI 3 pin and SPI 4 pin, to ask where the D0 and D1 probably come from.

I also assume we are using SPI 4 pin, so we need the reset, SCK and MOSI and … DC?

For those who want pictures, later.


(Scott R) #2

Source: https://github.com/jandelgado/arduino/wiki/SSD1306-based-OLED-connected-to-Arduino

(CS)Chip Select can also be labelled as (SS) Slave Select on some devices.



I can figure out the CS, the DC and the power lines.
Thanks for that. I’ll do that today.

Oh, I’ll upload the demanded(by you guys) photo of the stuff I am working on.
I do NOT have the pins to attach to the Leonardo right now, so you will have to wait to see it in action.

@Mr.Blinky I figured that I can attach the battery (and the charger) to 5V, and power the Leonardo with Vin.

But I assume giving it 5V via USB and 4.2 V via Vin can destroy the board.
Or will it?

If so, we can just hook the charger up to the DC with the battery, and put 5V zeners on the charger and diodes on the battery to prevent backflow.
And a power switch.



With pics…

Rather crammed, but full of everything.
The metallic dome buttons are independently grounded (GND and the top case use separate wiring)
They feel (and sound) like they can be pressed 1M times.

And while this loadout may look weird, this is the only way I can fit everything on the board without too many fuss.
I also like the way I soldered the RGB LED:

I specifically attached in a way so it points sideways to the board, so in desperate situations you can use it as a flashlight at better efficiency than the Arduboy.
I didn’t attatch the wires for the beeper (on the back) for some reason, and I don’t think a separate reset button would be necessary.
Next steps is to solder on the pins, ground off the soldering mess I had made (and maybe make them look prettier), and slap some insulation so I can stuff a battery between the gap raised by the pins.